Highlights - Largest lake in Sth East Asia, Batak culture,
traditional dancing and music, fishing and natural hot springs
Lake Toba, the largest lake in South East Asia, and the deepest in the world, was formed 75,000 years ago after an earth splitting volcano eruption. It is the largest and deepest volcanic crater lake in the world. It's 906 meters above sea level with an average depth of 450m. The lake has an island in the middle called Samosir. You can get to Lake Toba from Medan in around 3 - 4 hours.
Lake Toba is in the centre of the homeland to the Batak people but 'Tano Batak' covers an area the size of Belgium within North Sumatra. With their own language, the Batak are mainly Christian, encountering Christian missionaries in the 1850's and 1860's from Holland and Germany.
The current estimated population of Samosir is 120,000. Including Lake Toba there are six major Batak regions - Toba Batak, Karo Batak, Kakpak/Dairi Batak, Simeulungun Batak, Angkola Batak and Sipirko Batak. Around 1.5 Million Batak live amongst these regions. The Karo Batak and centered around Berastagi.
There is a regular ferry service, every half hour, between Tuk-Tuk on Samosir Island to Parapat. The ferry runs between 7.30am and 7.30pm during peak tourist seasons. During off peak times the last ferry back from Parapat is 6pm. The cost of the ferry is 7000Rp. Buy your ticket on the boat. At the ferry wharf and on the ferry you will be approached by many of the local young men trying to persuade you to go to the hotel they are affiliated with. These guys are mostly harmless and just trying to make a living guiding tourists. They can be a good resource for information. There is no harm in going and checking their hotel out and if you're not happy with that hotel move on to the ones close by. Tuk-tuk is not that large so the hotels are close. See the list of hotels at the bottom of this page.
View across to Tuk-Tuk Peninsula
On the island there are waterfalls and hot volcanic springs (Air Panas). In the dry season most of the waterfalls stop flowing.
Three megalithic sites on Samosir bear witness to the glory - and horror - of Batak history. The three consist of 300-year-old stone seats and benches arrayed in a circle. The first set of ruins was used as a conference area for Batak kings. At the second site, the rajas would sit in judgment of a criminal or enemy prisoner. If the accused were found guilty, the assembly would move to the third set, which features the ghastly addition of a central stone execution block.
The Air Panas - hot springs is on the other side of the island to Tuk-Tuk. The hot springs are not on Samosir Island but you do not need to take a ferry off the island to see them. On the opposite side of the island from where Tuk-Tuk is there is a town called Pangururan. There you will find a small isthmus that connects the island to the mainland. So is Samosir actually a true island? On the other side of this isthmus you will find the hot springs. It takes about 1 hour to ride the local bus to Pangururan from Tuk Tuk. If you hire a motorbike to travel around Samoris Island ride carefully as often dogs, chickens and school children dart across the roads as well as water buffalo on the side and often on the road.
Overlooking the hot springs is Mount Pusuk Buhit (1981m). Gunung Pusuk Buhit is sacred to the Batak people as the first ruler, Si Raja Batak, is believed to have descended from heavan onto the mountain.
At Simanindo, 19km from Tuk-Tuk, is the Batak Museum built in the house where Raja Sidauruk lived. Here you can see traditional dancing (Tordon) and puppet performances (Sigalegale). Sigalegale was originally performed at Batak funerals, the puppets being the receptacle for the soul of the deceased.
All over Samosir Island you will see lots of traditional Batak houses as well as the Batak grave sites which are suspended above the ground.
The Batak houses have lots of symbolism built into their design.
The roofs of the house are designed so the back of the roof in higher than the front. The father of the house always sleeps at the front of the house and the children in the back. The higher roof in the back signifies that the father wants his children to reach higher in life than himself.
The steps leading up to the small entrance are always atleast 4, 5 or 6 to signify how many children the family wants to have.
The small entrance into a Batak house are designed so you have to bow down to enter the house paying respect to the people inside the house.
In July every year the Batak people hold the Lake Toba festival. The festivities include Dragon boat races, traditional dancing, canoe races and a swim from Parapat to Tuk-Tuk. This festival was suspended in 2007 due to the economical climate and lack of tourists.
In the middle of Samosir Island there is a small mountain (780m) which is quite an easy climb to get to the top. On the journey up you will experience fantastic views over the lake and Tuk-Tuk. There are two guesthouses at the top of the mountain, John and Jenny's which makes for an interesting night away.
Internet access on Samosir Island is fairly slow and sometimes unreliable. There are often power cuts especially at night. The cost is fairly standard at all internet cafes and hotels set at 20,000Rp per hour, usually charged by the minute.
Getting to Lake Toba
You can catch a bus to Lake Toba from most to the main towns in Sumatra. You can catch a train from Medan to P. Siantar which is only 40 minutes from Lake Toba by bus. The train leaves Medan at 10.05am and arrives in P. Siantar at around 12.45pm.
A public bus to and from Medan to Parapat costs 18,000Rp and takes around 3 - 4 hours.
There are also daily flights on Susi Air that fly from Medan to Silangit (12.40pm) and flights from Silangit to Medan (1.20pm). Silangit is just south of Lake Toba with buses available to transport you to Parapat after your flight. The flight times are 40 minutes. www.susiair.com
Accommodation on Samosir Island
Accommodation in Tuk-Tuk
Following are details of some of the hotels in Tuk-Tuk on Samosir including contact details, room rates and traveler reviews.
Samosir Cottages (1 review) is one of the best places to stay in Tuk-Tuk. With 35 rooms from 105,000Rp - 385,000Rp for a family room. Prices are negotiable. For pictures, prices and contact details click here.
Carolina Hotel (10 reviews) is another great place to stay in Tuk-Tuk with rooms from 120,000Rp per night. Great rooms, restaurant and excellent swimming in the lake right at the front of the hotel complex. For pictures, prices and contact details click here.
Lekjon Cottages (1 review) has quality accommodation, large clean rooms with great views over the lake. The rooms are all overlooking the private beach area with great swimming right in front. Room rates start 50,000Rp per night. For pictures, prices and contact details click here.
Bagus Bay Homestay & Restaurant (1 review) has standard rooms and traditional Batak houses for rent from 20,000Rp - 75,000Rp. With a great restaurant and traditional Batak dancing Wed and Saturday evenings at 8pm. For pictures, prices and contact details click here.
Liberta Home Stay (5 reviews) has 9 rooms set in beautiful gardens with traditional Batak houses right on the Lake. Prices are from 35,000Rp to 50,000Rp. For pictures and contact details click here.
Horas Family Home is a self contained traditional Batak house right on the lake for families or groups. Caters for 1 to 6 people, prices from 300,000Rp. For pictures, prices and contact details click here.
Tabo Cottages (3 reviews) has a selection of rooms, Traditional Batak houses and villas starting from 215,000Rp per night For pictures, prices and contact details click here.
Reggae Guest House (3 reviews) has 6 rooms right down on the Lake. You can practically jump from the front door into the lake. The restaurant has the best views of sunset over Lake Toba. Prices 30,000 - 40,000Rp per night. For pictures, prices and contact details click here.
Bamboo Restaurant and Hotel. Next door to Reggae Guest house, right on the lake. Rooms from 30,000Rp per night. For pictures, prices and contact details click here.
Anju Cottages right next door to Samosir Cottages. Prices from. For pictures, prices and contact details click here.
Toledo Inn Tuk Tuk Phone +62 (625) 41429 Fax +62 (625) 451094
Popy's Restaurant and Lakeside rooms - Tuk Tuk Rooms from 25,000Rp (0625) 451 291
Hotels in Ambarita
Barbara's Guesthouse is set right on the lake in Ambarita, around 15 minutes from Tuk-Tuk. 2010 room rates are:
Room with hot shower Rp 70,000 per night
room with cold shower Rp 30,000 per night
Siantar - Sumatra
Hightlights - Access to Lake Toba
Pematang Siantar, referred to as just Siantar is a town in North Sumatra between Lake Toba and Medan. Siantar is the second largest city in North Sumatra after Medan. The city does not get alot of tourists so it is a great place to go to experience a city without being hassled. It is located 400m above sea level so has a cooler climate than Medan. Siantar is the administrative capital of the Simalungun plantation area.
In the early 1900's Pematang Siantar has various international companies running plantations of tea, rubber, cocoa and palm oil. These companies included HVA (Handels Vereeniging Amsterdam), German Marihat Platagen Compagnie GMBH and the American firm Goodyear.
There are still great examples of Dutch colonial houses from the turn of the 20th century. In 1912 Hotel Siantar was built by a man from Switzerland and this hotel is still in operation with many of it's original fittings.
The hospital in Siantar was used by the Japanese between March and December 1942 as a concentration camp for around 800 women and children.
The Simalungun Museum holds a good collection of 'pustaka laklak' which are bark books written in the Batak script by the magicians to record their sacred formulae.
Public buses to and from Parapat cost 8000Rp and takes around 45 minutes. Great internet connections, especially worth the hour trip from Lake Toba rather than the slow dial up lines on Samosir Island.
If going to Siantar or Lake Toba from Berastagi you need to go to Kabanjahe first then catch a bus from there to Siantar. Cost of public buses from Kabanjahe is 12,000Rp and takes around 3 hours.
Places to stay
Hotel Siantar
Jl. W.R. Supratman No.3
Siantar 21117
Phone: (0622) 21091
Fax : (0625) 21736
Jl. W.R. Supratman No.3
Siantar 21117
Phone: (0622) 21091
Fax : (0625) 21736
Sibolga - Sumatra
Highlights - Gateway to Nias Island and some of the best surfing in the world
Sibolga is on the West Coast of Sumatra, the administrative centre for Central Tapanuli. The main ferry gateway to Nias Island. The ferry to Nias is the main reason people come to Sibolga as it doesn't have a lot offer of interest. The best thing about Sibolga is it's great selection of seafood.
It has some lovely beaches and good snorkeling over coral reefs and various smaller islands just off the coast. There are 2 main beaches, Pantai Pandan 11km north of the town centre and Pantai Kalangan. At Pantai Pandan there are so good seafood restaurants. There is an entry fee to gain access to Pantai Kalangan of 250Rp.
There is a golf course just 12km from the town centre.
Bus services to Sibolga are limited. The main Trans-Sumatran Highway bypass Sibolga but buses can be taken from Parapat, Bukittinggi, Padang and Medan. It takes around 10 hours to get to Sibolga from Bukittinggi. From Parapat at Lake Toba to Sibolga will take around 5 hours.
From Taratung, south of Lake Toba to Sibolga, 66km, you will pass 1200 hairpin turns with great views out to the Tapanuli Bay which contains hundreds of small islands. Just off the coast from Sibolga, past the Tapanuli Bay is Pulau Mursala which is surrounded by clear water and an abundance of sea life.
The ferry from Sibolga to Nias takes from 8 to 13 hours depending on the weather. Ferries leave nightly at 8pm to both Gunung Sitoli and Teluk Dalam.
Pelni Ferries also operates a service from Sibolga to Padang.
Hotels to stay
Poncan Sibolga Marina Jl Yos Suarso No 29 Sibolga
Tel: 0631 328 688 Fax: 0631 328 698
A tropical island retreat with fifty air conditioned beachside bungalows on 62 ha. Has a 24 hour restaurant and can arrange surf, fishing and diving charters.
Hotel Wisata Indah Jl. Brigjen Katamso Ph: (0631) 23688
Hotel Pasar Baru corner of Jl Imam Bonjol and Jl Raja Junjungan Ph: (0631) 22167
Hotel Prima Indah Jl. Brigjen Katamso Ph: (0631) 22797
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